Did you understand that water heater problems are probably the most common reasons to be able to call a local plumber? Did you realize that the average cost to replace a leaking hot water heater is about $1000? If there were a method to easily and inexpensively extend the life of your water heater do you want to know how? Well, read on, the secret is at the anode.
It’s Too Late In the event the Tank Leaks
The number one reason you need to replace a hot water heater is because the particular tank has started out leaking. Many people wonder when to replace a water heater and when to repair it. The answer is when it’s got started leaking. There is no viable hot water heater repair for any leaking tank. Problems related to no warm water can almost continually be repaired, but a dripping tank means the end of the road to the water heater.
The Anode Rod
Water heaters are essentially steel tanks together with vitreous glass bonded for the inside to protect the steel through rust. This sounds good but you will find always seams and fittings that depart some steel confronted with the water. That’s why water heater manufacturers install a sacrificial anode rod in the tank.
An anode fly fishing rod protects the exposed steel from the effects of electrolysis. Electrolysis occurs when dissimilar metals are in touch with each other inside water. Whichever metal is the most reactive will corrode first. A metal’s “reactivity” will be measured on some thing called a galvanic level.
Anode rods are constructed of aluminum or magnesium, which are more reactive than metallic, so they can corrode first. This sacrificial rod protects the steel inside the tank from corrosion. But, since they are designed to wear out, anode rods must be replaced when depleted. How long this takes depends on several factors, such as drinking water quality, temperature and utilization patterns. Once the anode rod is used, up the fish tank starts corroding.
All new water heaters needs to have an anode rod installed in the factory. Some of them have the anode installed inside a separate opening along with the tank and several use a blend anode rod which is installed in the hot water outlet of the tank. If possible, get a hot water heater with a individual anode rod, which will usually have a hex at once top where the particular anode screws into the tank. This will allow you to add a 2nd, combination anode to increase your protection.
Adding a next anode when setting up or servicing a water heater is a very economical way to extend the life of the fish tank. That’s actually exactly what the manufacturers do for his or her longer warrantied versions. You can do a similar thing. If you combine that using a regular maintenance routine you can add years to the water heater’s program life.
Drain The Tank One or more times A Year
Maintaining your water heater doesn’t need to be a big job either. Every water heater manual ever written has a section regarding servicing. They all say to inspect the T&P valve and drain the heater no less than annually. If you possess ever done those things you may have found out the T&P Valve wouldn’t close properly following checking it and the water heater drain valve now leaking. Many people had the same experience and decided it wasn’t worth the hassle.
While it’s true that the T&P Valve is likely to leak after tests it, the danger required if it failed makes the chance of a leak worth every penny. If you want to see what could potentially happen due to a failed T&P, just Google “water heater blast” and check out the video on the website of in which name. It will help to make replacing a $6 component a no-brainer. It only has a little residential plumbing how to skill and a few minutes.
One other thing you can do when you set up or service a water heater to make your daily life easier is to go ahead and replace the tacky, plastic drain device. You can try this really simply if the tank is dried out. You can use a brass boiler deplete or hose bibb, just make sure it’s long enough to reach the tank through the insulation and property. The absolute easiest way I’ve seen is by using a brass nipple, a threaded basketball valve and a great adapter from water pipe threads to hose threads having a cap screwed on the hose threads to avoid accidentally opening the particular valve.
Once you’ve installed a real drain valve, follow the producers suggestion. Once or twice annually, hook a hose towards the drain and get rid of the tank out before the water runs obvious. This will help alleviate problems with a sediment build up in the fish tank bottom. Sediment that collects round the bottom seam can become a barrier and never allow the anode to guard that the main tank. A reduction in efficiency because of this build up is also a common gas hot water heater problem, but the large issue is that it blocks the anode defense.
It is also smart to check the anode once you flush the heat tank, if you make this a routine you’ll be able to replace the particular anode before it is completely gone. Remember, once the anode is finished the tank starts corroding. With the water for the water heater turned off, take a huge wrench and remove the hex nut on top of the water heater. The anode should look kind of like a chewed upward stick, this means it’s working. If it is quite small or looks almost being a wire with some chunks onto it, it needs to become replaced.
Making sure your own heater is protected using a good anode fly fishing rod and performing at least an annual sediment flush should allow you to get the maximum length of service from your hot water heater. Since a water heater is just about the single most expensive element of your plumbing method, preventing a hot water heater problem can save you a bundle.
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